Dartmoor: The Tors and Rocks in West Cleave

Halstock Wood Tor

This walk was planned so Paul Buck could show Tim Jenkinson and I the tors and rocks in West Cleave, and so it only made sense for us to go on a really windy and wet day! But first off, before getting the bus to the Star Inn to meet Tim, I noticed some pebble art in Newton Abbot opposite the town library.

Pebble art

Newton Abbot Library

Tim and I arrived at Fatherford Car Park to begin the walk with Paul in an area of the moor I'd never visited before. We walked up the road, took a right to pass under the A30 dual carriageway and then another right onto a good footpath hugging the field boundaries, the last of which housed dozens of cute Dartmoor Ponies.

Making friends

We were on the road for seconds until we took another right to reach the beautiful Cleave Tor, a tor I immediately fell in love with. Its position is spectacular and its rock face is very grand.

Cleave Tor

Cleave Tor

Cleave Tor

Cleave Tor

Before heading south to cross the East Okement Paul guided Tim and I north to find an OS benchmark at SX 6089 9417 approx.

OS benchmark

OS benchmark

OS benchmark

Back over Cleave Tor we descended to the footbridge over the East Okement. There is also a ford here, I believe Chapel Ford, but the recent heavy rain has made it too dangerous to cross, and why would you when there's a dry crossing next door?

On the footbridge - photo by Tim Jenkinson

Chapel Ford gate

The path which goes north from here is picturesque if a little slippery, not aided by the fact that the geology here isn't granite; if it were there'd be more grip. It first passes above an impressive waterfall at SX 6078 9366 which is the start of 'West Cleave Gorge'.

West Cleave Gorge

West Cleave Gorge

West Cleave Gorge - photo by Tim Jenkinson

West Cleave Gorge

Further along, we passed a modest rock face with water pouring down it. Paul said that it was the lower portion of what he has appropriately called 'Halstock Wood Tor'; we would visit the upper outcrops after walking the full length of West Cleave Gorge.

Halstock Wood Tor lower

Halstock Wood Tor lower dripping water

Halstock Wood Tor lower

On our right, we spotted a large rock face which we surmised was the likely termination of West Cleave Gorge, at SX 6076 9393. With the East Okement River ploughing its way through the gorge, roaring as it does, you really get a sense of place here, as if you were in the middle of somewhere uninhabitable. I love it.

West Cleave Gorge - rock across the river

West Cleave Gorge

West Cleave Gorge - an outcrop above the left bank

West Cleave Gorge

Before bumping into the Moor Brook, we took a sharp left to begin ascending the hillside to find Halstock Wood Tor's upper section. It wasn't too difficult a task and it's a typical woodland tor, the only major difference being the roar of the river below.

Halstock Wood Tor

Halstock Wood Tor

Atop Halstock Wood Tor

We made it to the top of the woodland on a good track past another OS benchmark on a gatepost (SX 60622 93813 approx).

OS benchmark and glove

The path nicely contoured until we dropped off it slightly to investigate 'Halstock Cleave Tor', also found by Paul. It is another beautiful rockpile above a river, though this time the Moor Brook. 

Halstock Cleave Tor

Halstock Cleave Tor

Halstock Cleave Tor

Halstock Cleave Tor

Just to the west of the tor is a small ford that we wanted to, well, ford, but we didn't think it was worth the risk given how high the water was and the small stepping stones looked slippery. So, despite seeing two others cross it, we chose to stick to the brook's right bank where we had to occasionally ascend the hillside to avoid the wall.

We crossed a stile and were on the right side of the Moor Brook now, taking the track which passes below Ashbury Lower Crags, another tor described by Paul. Some people may consider these rocks to be the lower crags of Ashbury Tor, but they are quite far away from it and so are given a separate identity.

Ashbury Lower Crags

Ashbury Lower Crags

Ashbury Lower Crags

The next section to Ashbury Tor wasn't enjoyable as we had to contour the hillside sideways which without poles made the experience very daunting, and, of course, I was behind. If any of us were to slip we'd end up in the Moor Brook or thereabouts in a good deal of pain. As offputting as it was I eventually rejoined Paul and Tim to explore Ashbury Tor from below.

Below Ashbury Tor

The tor itself is renowned for being among the best of the lesser-known tors, it being in Paul and Tim's favourite tors list. William Crossing and Eric Hemery both devote a significant amount of time describing the tor, the former stating "Close by is Ashbury Tor, beautifully draped with climbing plants, and half hidden amid heather. The spot is altogether very charming, and the visitor should be no means omit to include it in his rambles. A fine view of Belstone West Cleave is obtained from the rocks." 

Eric Hemery sets the scene; "If Ashbury Tor, so easily accessible from the road on East Hill, were a visitor's first contact with Dartmoor, his pulses would quicken and imagination be fired beyond anything printed page or photograph could achieve, for here, heaving itself up fiercely from the patchwork of lowlands bordered by distant, hazy and gentle hills, Dartmoor begins."

But I didn't feel quite the same. I paused for a minute or two to look around the base of the tor, disappointed by what I saw: a scruffy outcrop which while large lacked character. Did I miss something blatantly obvious that the other authors saw? Was I in a bad mood?

Ashbury Tor

Ashbury Tor moss

Ashbury Tor

Ashbury Tor view of Cleave Tor

The Roman Chair is a well-known feature near the summit. It wasn't very comfortable.

The Roman Chair

There is a good view of Belstone Common from the summit of Ashbury Tor which from here is a small ridge of rock.

Ashbury Tor

From here we had a difficult walk to East Hill, the wind right in our faces for the whole ascent which, to be fair, was very gentle. But the wind made it a tough stroll; this was what we called the East Hill Hurricane. 

East Hill is a bland hill but with amazing views of Okehampton and The Roof of Devon. A trig point marks the summit beside some exposed bedrock, too small to be considered a tor.

East Hill trig point

East Hill bedrock

The Hurricane still stuck with us until we reached the footbridge over the A30 - yes, the footbridge which is at an angle when viewed from the road. All I can say is I was happy to get to the other side!

Crossing the A30

Crossing the A30

The Old Station Tea Rooms were on our route so it only made sense to go in and have a small bite to eat. Then it was a simple walk back on a level path below Ball Hill to Charlotte's Bridge, a memorial bridge at Fatherford Viaduct near the car park. This was the end of our walk.

Chartlotte's Bridge